KINSALE, Va. -
(KRT) - In the predawn hours at Bevans
Oyster Company, workers still pry the gray, slippery
creatures from their shells by hand. But despite the
company's strategic location on the shores of the
Chesapeake Bay, most of the oysters shucked here are
no longer homegrown.
Decades of disease,
overharvesting and pollution have decimated the
Chesapeake's fabled American oyster, the Crassostrea
virginica.
Now, in a drastic
attempt to resuscitate the industry, the Virginia
Seafood Council is planning to raise nearly 1 million
Asian oysters - a non-native species - in the
Chesapeake's brackish waters.
The controversial
aquaculture experiment - it would begin in June -
raises concerns about the long-term effects of
deliberately introducing into domestic waters a
foreign species, even one held captive in cages and
genetically incapable of reproducing.
To some, especially the
storied watermen and the few remaining oyster
businesses in the area, the Asian oyster, or
Crassostrea ariakensis, represents the hope of
salvation of the wounded bay, and thus the region's
economy and way of life.
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Others, however, are
concerned the plan could put the bay - and possibly
the whole Eastern Seaboard - at risk. If the oysters
manage to escape and reproduce, they could become an
invasive species. And because one of the two parasitic
diseases crippling the native species likely came from
another non-native mollusk that was deliberately
released into the Chesapeake two decades ago, many
scientists want to proceed with caution.
At the very least, that
means waiting for word from a National Academy of
Sciences committee that is examining the risks of
raising non-native oysters in the Chesapeake Bay.
Committee members, along with the U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
and the U.S. Forest Service, were so alarmed by the
seafood industry's aggressive solution that they
voiced concerns even before the study's expected
completion this summer.
"I admit (reviving
native oysters) looks bleak, but whether everything
has been done remains to be seen," said geneticist
Dennis Hedgecock, chairman of the committee and a
professor at the Bodega Marine Laboratory at the
University of California-Davis. "The introduction of
the Asian oyster seems like another simplistic
solution to a complicated issue."
Industry members argue
that if studies drag out any longer, they will have no
business left to save. Waiting for the report and
subsequent baywide discussion would delay commercial
trials of the Asian oyster for two more years,
according to the Virginia Seafood Council.
Meanwhile, Maryland is
expecting a record-low harvest of only 50,000 bushels
this year - and Virginia less than half that. Already,
99 percent of the oysters processed in Virginia come
from other waters, such as the Gulf of Mexico.
"We feel absolutely
desperate," said Francis Porter of the Virginia
Seafood Council. "We've been creative, we've had
success stories with moving seeds (of native oysters)
to another location in the bay. But after two years,
they're dying or dead. Shucking houses have closed.
We're in dire straits as an industry."
According to the
proposal, each of 10 sites around the Chesapeake -
eight in the bay and two along the Atlantic Ocean -
would receive about 100,000 seeds of the Asian oyster.
The animals, placed in either clam cages, bags or a
floating raft, would be harvested when they reach
market size, estimated to take 9 to 18 months,
according to the plan approved by the Virginia Marine
Resources Commission and, after initial trepidation,
by the state of Maryland.
To prevent the
creatures from wreaking ecological havoc, scientists
created a modified oyster with three chromosomes,
called a triploid, so it cannot reproduce. But the
process is not foolproof, and it is possible that
normal oysters with two chromosomes - diploids - could
be among the triploids.
"Depending on the
frequency, they could be juxtaposed close enough to
breed," said Stan Allen, director of the Aquaculture
Genetics and Breeding Technology Center at the
Virginia Institute of Marine Science. "We could
determine as close as 1 in 1,000 are accidental
tourists."
Moreover, as they age,
triploids are capable of reverting to diploids. Oyster
growers say they would pluck the oysters out of the
water before that happens. But there is always the
chance that some of them could be lost or stolen.
Allen says the risk
potential is low unless the oysters are in the water
for a decade, but some EPA officials worried about the
two-year time frame and initially objected to the
plan.
In March, federal
officials reached an agreement with industry that
alleviated some of their concerns, said Mike Fritz,
living resources coordinator for the Chesapeake Bay
Program, a partnership between states and the EPA. The
15 conditions that must be met before the industry
receives an Army Corps of Engineers' permit include
requiring that the oysters are pulled from the water
no later than June 30, 2004. In addition, any
recommendations by the committee must be considered.
"We would have liked
for them to have waited (for the study), but we
negotiated satisfactory conditions," Fritz said.
Oysters, a food source
dating back at least to the Stone Age, start life as
free-swimming larvae. In its first two weeks, an
oyster develops its shell as it scours the bottom for
a hard-surfaced home. Using its own glue, it adheres
to a rock or empty shell and waits for tidal currents
to bring it plankton for food.
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Virginia's native
oysters reach market size in about three years. But
the diseases MSX and Dermo ravage the local shellfish
after about two years, despite attempts to rebuild
reefs and breed disease-resistant oysters.
The Asian oysters,
which grow faster and larger but taste similar to
Virginia's mollusk, have shown a fondness for the
Chesapeake. In earlier trials they were able to fight
off the diseases.
In addition to their
commercial value, oysters filter sediment, algae and
nutrients, something the Chesapeake sorely needs these
days. In the late 1800s, when oyster reefs were so
abundant they were considered navigational hazards,
the hardworking mussels filtered the Chesapeake every
three days. Now the water is filtered about once a
year.
Though more than 7
million oysters were harvested in the Chesapeake in
the early 1900s, the numbers had dropped to 4 million
by the 1950s. The disease MSX showed up in the 1980s
when entrepreneurs seeking to boost the harvest dumped
another Asian oyster - Crassostrea gigas - into the
bay, walloping a species already fighting the native
disease Dermo, pollution and overharvesting. Recently,
seasons of drought have allowed diseases to
proliferate and kept the population down.
France, facing a
declining oyster population, introduced the Pacific
oyster in the 1970s. Since then, France's oyster
culture has grown to about 6 million bushels a year,
Allen said.
"You have to move
forward when you come to dead ends," said Jim Wesson,
head of conservation replenishment for the Virginia
Marine Resource Commission. "We've done everything
people have asked us to do for safety: These are
sterile animals in cages. We're trying to be as
careful as we can, knowing a clock is ticking. If we
wait too long, there will be no reason to do it."
At the family-run
Bevans Oyster Company, which supplies seafood
wholesalers and restaurants in Chicago, the trial
cannot come soon enough. Though the company has
expanded its product lines, Ronnie Bevans still longs
for the good old days, when he would tell watermen
whether or not he needed their oysters, and his own
boats were trolling the waters of the Chesapeake.
"We had so many oysters
right here," sighed Bevans, who founded the company in
1966 with his wife, Shirley, when he was 18. "I didn't
realize I should have been taking pictures of them."