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united states - Mar 14, 2003
Source: seafood.com
Only Aquaculture Can Supply Future Demand for Fish

SEAFOOD.COM NEWS [Cape Cod Times - Knight Ridder/Tribune Business News via COMTEX]

BOSTON--A threesome stopped in front of a Taiwanese aquaculture booth at the Boston International Seafood Show on Wednesday. A large photo of a barracuda-like fish hung on the curtain behind an Asian woman dishing out small plastic cups of firm pinkish-white fillets.

Ignoring the wasabi horseradish paste and soy sauce, the man fingered a plastic cup of farm-raised cobia.

'Cobia,' he said. 'I think my mother had a sister-in-law named Cobia.'

Two million pounds of cobia are caught by recreational fishermen around the world each year, but it's not exactly a household word around here. Still, the market for firm, white and basically tasteless meat is huge in North America. If aquaculturalists have their way, cobia will join the once unknown tilapia fish which is a South American fish that is becoming more popular on market shelves.

Aquaculture, or farm-raising fish, was a large focus of the three-day seafood show at the Hynes Convention Center this week. Of  750 booths, which showcased everything from fried 'gator to lumpfish, 95 featured aquaculture efforts.

Historically, most fish have been caught in the wild. But wild stocks worldwide are dwindling, with many of them overfished. United Nations' Food and Agriculture Organization reports show that, despite increased efforts by fishermen, wild harvests have stayed relatively flat since 1991.

The same reports show aquaculture steadily increasing year after year with a 52 percent surge predicted by 2030, when farm-raised fish harvests are expected to surpass those caught in the wild.

Howard M. Johnson, a seafood marketing analyst, used U.S. Department of Agriculture statistics that track seafood consumption to predict that the U.S. market will require an additional 1.1 billion pounds of seafood by 2020. Johnson, who chaired a panel on the farm-raised fish of the future, said he believes that only aquaculture can fill that need.

'It's the only place it can come from. You're not going to fill that need from capture fisheries, they're pretty much maxxed out,' he said.

People involved in aquaculture are trying to find the next salmon, he said. Once considered a luxury fish with a high cost, salmon ended up being the perfect fish to raise in big pens anchored in shallow inshore waters.

Salmon had name recognition and a body that yielded a thick piece of meat in automated filleting machines. Salmon farms in the sheltered bays of northern Maine almost single-handedly propelled Maine to become the Northeast's top commercial fishing state. In 2000, salmon harvests from farms were worth $78.9 million, third behind wild species of lobster and scallops.

But competition from South American fish farmers with lower overhead and government subsidies caused a glut on the salmon market, and in 2001 the harvest was worth just $58.2 million.

Johnson said likely suspects for fish farmers looking to diversify include barramundi, an Australian reef fish; Chinese perch; Vietnamese snakehead fish, which feeds on rice hulls, breathes air and walks across land to find water.

Freshwater exotic fish are usually raised in inland tanks or raceways, but the big dough is in fish like salmon, which can be grown in offshore pens. With wild stocks of New England and Europe's bread-and-butter species such as cod, haddock and flounder still on the road back from historically low levels, aquaculturalists are looking to that market.

Johnson said he has heard figures estimating an aquaculture harvest of 600,000 to 700,000 metric tons of cod worldwide by 2015, surpassing the wild catch. But the path to aquaculture riches is fraught with problems.

Dealing with disease, environmental issues and fluctuating costs, such as fish feed, can erode the profit margin.

Ken Hirtle of Heritage Salmon in Newfoundland, Canada, told the audience Wednesday that his company had spent millions of dollars and eight years of research on raising haddock and still didn't know if it was commercially viable.

(C) 2003, Cape Cod Times. Distributed by Knight Ridder/Tribune Business News

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